I like to think that we’ve been making good headway into covering the tailoring in great Hollywood films, both new and old. But one genre is new to us, despite dressing in its vein throughout the years. I’m of course referring to the Western, a genre of promise and cynicism with great attire that has inspired many of my outfits…despite me only really seeing a handful like Wild, Wild West and The Power of the Dog (woof). 

Western films (be they old  or modern) are fun to watch as a vintage menswear enthusiast because it allows to see a bunch of fun fashion moves that you may not get in a “regular” movie (which leans metropolitan). In addition to denim, cowboy boots, and big hats Westerns treat us to utilitarian jackets, bandanas, and all various Western details like yokes and welted pockets. Suits can be found in Westerns, but designs tend to be “older”, looking Victorian or Edwardian with trim legs, cutaway coats, stiff collars, and derby hats. It is fun to see these things juxtaposed with the rugged setting (and clothes) of the American West. Again, it is funny that we haven’t really covered any on the pod/blog!

It seems that Spencer had been feeling the Western nod, as he and his girlfriend crafted a Western night for their Nebula Film Club. To my surprise, he didn’t pick something from John Ford. Instead, he programmed Butch Cassidy & The Sundance Kid. I wasn’t complaining not just because I haven’t seen it, but I loved the chemistry between Redford and Newman ever since I saw The Sting.  I was plenty aware that the fits in this wouldn’t be the most accurate (just like The Sting), but I was ready for a fun ride. And boy did it deliver!

As you probably expected, the film blew me away. It’s just so good! Not only is it a lot of fun to watch our charismatic leads rob banks but I also enjoy that overarching theme of “time running out” that coincides with the turn of the century. The Old West is dying and the future is here…with no space for Butch and Sundance. The duo can run and fight as much as they want, but their destiny will catch them sooner or later. In that way, this film reminds me of Public Enemies, which had a similar theme but with 1930s bank robbers (and with a Heat filter).  Maybe I just have thing for protagonists who do their best to be steadfast against time, even if it is a fools errand.

Of course, it helps that the costuming is cool. I’m a simple man: if a movie has good costuming, I’ll enjoy it. This one is a particularly odd case however because it’s not even the most Western or period accurate. But our lovable outlaws look cool. And when it comes to Newman and Redford, that’s all that really matters.  

And so after his Nebula Film Club night, Spencer and I decided to make this the subject of our latest bonus pod.

I think it would’ve served these outlaws better if Butch and Sundance changed their clothes when they robbed banks..or when they tried to go straight with normal jobs. But that’s the charm of a uniform, as strict as it is— it creates an iconic and recognizable look. It helps that the looks are incredibly simple, almost to the point of barely looking Western, let alone 1890s.  Perhaps that’s why menswear guys, who love things that are unfussy and straightforward, constantly repost stills of this movie. And again, they look damn cool in their looks. 

The core look (the “bank robbing uniform” of sorts) of both Butch and Sundance is quite literally a button-up shirt (they should technically be wearing a pull-over style sans collar), slim-straight trousers (seems to be wool or cotton twill), and cowboy boots. It makes sense for this twosome to match vibes, though they are only really separated by their color palette of choice. Sundance’s youthful badassery is evoked with black shirts and pants while Butch’s gravitas calls for soft earth tones. This is echoed in their gambler-esque hats: Sundance’s is black and Butch’s is brown (made of leisurely straw no less). 

Western cues are maintained (ever so slightly) through their jackets…at least in the first half of the film. Butch dons a chore-coat style rancher jacket with a leather collar, which again feels more “modern” than is appropriate for the proto-Edwardian Western era. When Butch takes off his hat, he looks like he’s in a Buck Mason (or even Huckberry) lookbook. At least it’s decidedly Western. Sundance has a similar jacket, this time in wide-wale corduroy. Its lack of chest pockets and use of five or so buttons make it a bit more period-friendly. Of course, this all gets thrown out of the window when we get to the last act of the film where these Western jackets are thrown out in favor of…regular sportcoats; at that point, it’s Butch who gets to wear cord. 

However, apart from the jackets, hats, and boots, their attire is at best, minimally Western-coded. Butch’s shirt at the beginning of the film has a yoke going through the upper part of the chest but this is discarded in favor of a regular point collar shirt; it doesn’t even have chest pockets. Sundance’s black shirt has twin pockets (a shout-out to Yul Byrnner in The Magnificent Seven?) but it still looks like he’s just a guy in the late 60s wearing a shirt, jeans, and cowboy boots. Hell, you can see guys rocking a similar look (facial hair and all) if you walk into a bar in Silverlake or Brooklyn. This half-baked vibe wouldn’t be too noticeable if Butch and Sundance weren’t constantly surrounded by people who are not only more Western but more period. It’s no wonder that people recognize these outlaws straight away. 

What makes this all funny is that our loveable outlaws can look period..but only when it comes to tailored menswear. Their 3PC suits seem to have 4-5 buttons and are cut trim and short, as was en vogue for this time; the use of the Derby hat is quite nice. Shirts and ties are a bit scattered as some scenes have them in stiff, detachable club collars (or band collars) and brocades while other scenes have Butch and Sundance in proto-70s semi-spreads and paisleys. However, the overall styling is quite good making them look quite normal, whether it’s being worn on a bicycle joyride, to have a celebratory dinner, or to make the bank manager think that you’re a newlywed couple looking to make a personal deposit. 

As critical as I want to be about costume accuracy, I think the Rule of Cool excuses everything.  Thanks to Edith Head, Butch Cassidy and The Sundance Kid (and by extension, Newman and Redford) look so good, and their inherent charm and charisma certainly help sell their look. For me, this film only adds to the library of Western looks to pull from. It may not be a nudie suit or as pointed as The Searchers or True Grit, but it’s still a well of inspiration. If anything, Butch Cassidy & The Sundance Kid makes a great case for simply wearing a work shirt, trousers, cowboy boots, and a western hat. 

I say that because my outfit to Spencer’s watch party learned into the 1950s sort of Western: cropped length Lee 101J, sawtooth shirt, bandana, and a big Western hat. It’s a bit extra and something that Hobie Doyle would have worn in one of his movies. I prefer this more “earnest” take that leans into novelty and fun instead of being streamlined (and as a result, comes off as more period agnostic). But after watching this film, I think I may just try going with a simple look when going Western. Maybe it’s okay to get a little minimal and sexy once in a while! 

You can listen to a clip of our movie style discussion above or you can subscribe on Patreon for the full episode!

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Buh-bye!

Ethan M. Wong (follow me on IG)| StyleandDirection

The Podcast is produced by MJ.