This blog post is a bit of a recap and summary of the latest podcast episode! For the best experience, listen to the pod and then scroll through.
Back in 2023, my partner at the time and I watched a local production of Spring Awakening. I had never heard it before, but like with most musicals (I am a fake theatre kid), I was floored immediately. I loved the indie rock-style songs, the adolescent stories (highly prescient for our times), and obviously, the preppy outfits. It’s a very “Ethan” musical— I can do all sing “The Bitch of Living” on the spot (but don’t make me sing).
As I recall, the outfits leaned “older” (due to the original source play’s 1891 publish date), pairing blazers with slim pants tucked into riding boots and high socks. It’s certainly a same-but-different take on the “school boy look” that humourously has more pertinence to my current attire, as riding boots have been one of my absolute favorite items to wear ever since I got them. Perhaps I need to do some preppy summer looks with my beloved riding boots, inspired by Spring Awakening.
I’m bringing all of this up because my Tiktok feed was full of Spring Awakening (specifically “The Bitch of Living”), both in terms of trending audio and straight up clips of Jonathan Groff in the original run. It all seems to be brought up because one viral clip (shown above) had someone dressed in a cue, preppy fit…that feels decidedly Spring Awakening-coded. Again, it really seems like I need to add my own outfits to the mix and join the Song of Purple (sock?) Summer.
Theatre costuming was a theme of the latest pod, because I also happened to recently watch an interestingly-costumed staging of Hamlet. This iteration, produced by Robert O’ Hara, puts the Shakesperean tragedy in a noir setting. It’s not exactly period-set (in fact, it’s definitely supposed to be modern), but you can tell that it takes a lot of inspiration from classic film noir, shown in the branding, set design/effects, and a few of the characters’ attire.
For example, King (or Producer, as this staging turns Hamlet from a prince to a film producer’s nepo baby), Claudius wears double-breasted suits and open collar shirts during the day and a PJ set with Prince Albert slippers at night, making for bit of a retro take on a recently affluent man. Polonius also wears a double-breasted suit, though his is pinstriped; he also wears a tie and suspenders. There’s also a detective character with a full belted trench coat and fedora, who shows up during the meta-twist of the play.
Costuming is also key in emphasizing that this is a modern take on Hamlet. The Prince himself (played by a guy from the The Pitt, which I haven’t seen) is dressed like an Hedi boy, donning a double rider, sheer shirt, skinny jeans, and Cuban heeled side zips, all in black. At first I thought it was more of a “1940’s dad, 1960’s son” thing until I saw Horatio, who (in my showing) wore a Gucci-esque printed silk shirt with black skinny jeans and trendy platform loafers. The duo, played as secret lovers instead of friends/master-servant, are clearly meant to be rich kids in designer clothing. This vibe is echoed with Rosencrantz and Guildenstern, who looked very frat boy-film bro in their dad caps and streetwear-adjacent clothes.
It’s always fun to see just how costuming can help express aspects about a character, especially in a play where they usually only get one costume. This also makes it more interesting than simply dressing everyone in period Shakespearan clothing (or attempting to), where nuances can get lost (and it can also just feel too much like you’re watching a play).
Attending this play was quite an Occasion for me as, perhaps to your surprise, I haven’t seen that many plays, let alone ones that are this big. I’m more often seen at the Phil or Opera (but I want to change that). I’m really glad that my friend Linh suggested it!
We all felt the Occasion spirit and made an evening Linh, the friend who organized the whole thing, suggested the pre-fixed dinner at Lasita, a Filipino fusion restaurant in Chinatown which I hadn’t tried yet. It was great to sit outside and enjoy a chill dinner before sauntering (let’s be real– driving) over to the Music Center. Some of us then went back to Chinatown and got a drink at Café Triste, one of my favorite little wine bars, where some of my menswear pals also joined in for a nightcap (and a cheeky cig).
I debated on wearing a tuxedo or black tie for this, but since we were all meeting up a bit earlier (and I didn’t want to wear two outfits), I opted for just a suit. Of course, it wasn’t just any ‘ol suit, but my new cream 4-ply suit from Suit Supply (which replaced my slightly shrunken linen number from Fugue). I went for a full tonal look with a cream-striped point collar and khaki-ish abstract print tie; I also wore tan socks with my brown fisherman sandals. The whole thing was actually a take on an outfit I wore to last year’s SFC party, just with a full suit (and different sandals). I felt like this outfit was a way to be slightly elevated for the Occasion while being decidedly summery; so is the power of the cream suit!
Jay was on a similar wavelength as he also wore a cream/tan outfit, albeit in separates. He had cream M-43 pants from Buck Mason (this was tempting), along with a rayon workshirt (my favorite type) and my old tan 1940s seersucker jacket that I sold him when I outgrew it. I love that he styled it in a way that is decidedly Jay– I’m referring to the use of a bandana/neck scarf, which he always does when it’s warm.
Certainly makes you think what you’d wear if you found yourself in Florence during Pitti season…
And that brings me to the last and biggest discussion on the latest pod: Pitti Uomo 108, the Spring/Summer 2025 show. And despite our previous (and sporadic) coverage of other editions of the show, our interest has lessened over time. Does that make us Bad Menswear guys? 😦
If you’re not already aware (how could you not be?), Pitti Uomo is the premier menswear event. Held biannually in Florence at the Fortezza de Basso, Pitti is a trade show where brands, designers, and artisans showcase their latest products and collections for buyers and media (publications, influencers) to see. Streetwear and designer clothing is a part of this, but Classic Menswear does make a big splash here, at least compared to other more fashion-oriented shows (Milan/New York Fashion Week); tailors, mills, boutiques, and so on are all in attendance. There’s no other place that brings together the classic menswear world. Except maybe, Alfargo’s.
Since the trade show is “classified” (this is about future buys after all), a lot of stuff we mortals get to see is relegated to the Fortezza’s plaza, where all your favorite menswear guys snap or get snapped in the fits they meticulously planned for this biannual bartorial bonanza. There are also cocktail nights and parties scattered throughout the historic city, all hosted by brands and media (WM Brown hosts a major one every season).
This makes Pitti into more than just what’s happening at the Foretela. It’s a whole networking and community-focused shindig, helping foster relationships (personal and professional), while simultaneously providing more Occasions to prompt an outfit, or to justify a mid-day change up (trunks of clothing seem to be par usual for Pitti attendees). Pitti often acts as the one place where menswear guys get to truly let loose. Those outside-the-trade-show parties are sometimes one of the few black tie opportunities for the menswear world; perhaps they should start attending the Symphony!
I used to look forward to Pitti season each year, simply because it was one of the only places to obtain great menswear content. To be clear, I wasn’t looking to Pitti for direction on my fits, but rather to simply sense the attitude of contemporary-classic menswear and have an understanding of what was going on; after all, I tend to get lost in my own sauce of vintage photographs and illustrations, as well as movies. Streetstyle content at Pitti was the best way to whet the thirst for classic menswear until you could simply follow your favorite personalities directly or before editorials and lookbooks (by Drake’s, The Armoury, Anglo-Italian, Bryceland’s etc) became quite good (especially in the 2015-2019 era). It still is a great place to look, but I’ve really just returned to my own sauce, especially since I haven’t worked in the menswear world since early 2020. I don’t really need to keep up, so I’ve gotten back in my sauce (if you haven’t already noticed).
It doesn’t help that most Pittis look the same, especially in spring/summer. On the classic menswear side, you get a hearty helping of white/cream/tan linens (either as suits or separates), safari jackets (the love continues), polos and sport shirts with runaway collars, sockless loafers, straw hats, and a bit of a 1920s/Gatsby lean for the dandies. It’s honestly endearing to see how this specific subculture of sorts (the classic menswear side, I mean) has hardly changed its Pitti attitude. But that simply means we don’t really need to see it.
That being said, we did like the shots of sartorial guys who were a bit different from Pitti convention, such as dark summer tailoring (instead of whites and pastels) and with more trad/Apparel Arts styling (with pattern mixing). I also have to give kudos to the preppy combos, where there is just a lot of fun going on. Overall, I just don’t think I need more photos of guys in white pants with boldly checked jackets and no tie. At least wear a Bold, summer ties; an open spread collar shirt just feels so bizcaz.
I will say that the best part about Pitti street style is that it allows you to notice just what has changed about Big Menswear. Again, this trade show is a good barometer for the garments or combos that have captured the attention of the Big Classic Menswear Personalities. One major one is silhouette, where it seems that more and more guys are indeed adopting higher rises and wider legs; a few are even ensuring that their shirt collars are longer. Seeing these wider silhouettes being worn among the typical beige/white linen separates and the typical safari jackets is quite a big win for my POV. You can certainly see the difference when you compare this show to Pitti 94.
Vintage continues to play a big part in the zeitgeist, with high appearances of both true vintage and vintage-inspired garments being worn by attendees. You’ve always seen this with suiting, as spring-summer Pitti is when you get to see some 20s/30s-esque takes like regatta blazers, patch-flap pockets, and a hefty use of boaters, but again, the push away from slim fit does fit the theme that Nostalgia is still the theme of the game. 70s as well as 80s/90s can be seen in both the silhouette and the styling, but it’s also just about owning and wearing vintage items of all kinds. Personally, I wish that the looks were a bit more cohesive, as most of the outfits just seem to be about pairing together vintage for vintage’s sake, like a 70s cowboy boots with 50s-style trousers, and a 90s tank top. However, that may put things a bit too costumey or too period-focused, so I get why guys may avoid doing it that way. I’m just glad that people are appreciating vintage garments and the details that make them special.
This vintage mood seems to have culminated in the Alfargo’s boys attending their first ever Pitti. Stephon, Nick, Elias, Zane, Sora, and Co. all made the trek to Florence and had some of the best fits of the season (of course, I might be biased). It was like having your home team at the championship; I finally felt like I had an actual connection to Pitti, even if I was just living through my pals. They certainly made the most of it, showing up in coordinated outfits (as they do during each Alfargo’s) and making appearances at every big party, getting flicked up by almost all the publications and figures I seem to know.
I couldn’t be prouder of them!
Seeing the Alfargo’s boys at Pitti brought up the bi-annual question: what would we wear if we went to Pitti (the summer one)? It’s a bit funny to think about, considering that if I went, it wouldn’t be to promote any collection or any project; it would just be to go and people watch. But that’s still quite an occasion to get fitted, so here we go.
At least one of my outfits has to be something trad/Apparel Arts. After all, I need to represent my “brand”! I’m not sure if it would be a dark brown DB suit or my white DB suit (basic and expected, I know), but whichever one I go with will certainly be paired with a striped shirt and patterned tie. A straw hat (either my optimo or a boater) would be the move, to firmly plant my outfit as firmly for the warm weather.
My khaki Senior pants would likely be the next move, worn with a blazer to evoke a preppy demeanor. Then, for extra points, I would wear my black senior pants with a white dinner jacket for at least one of the many black tie events that pepper the city (provided I get an actual invitation, of course). I always feel that senior pants are worn casually, so adding some “formal” representation to these fun trousers is an absolute must.
Lastly, I’d likely do something casual, either via Safincore or something “suit adjacent”, by which I mean a jacket (or chore coat worn “like” a sportcoat) with wide casual pants (like my beloved SFC gauchos). Sandals (with socks) will likely be the footwear of choice for this one. Expressing artistic slouch with my proportions is very Ethan while also being a change of pace from simply wearing a tie the whole time. I have range, okay?
Pitti Uomo will always be an interesting place to me. To someone who is now even more of a menswear hobbyist than ever before, an event that is so industry-focused does feel a little weird. And if this is about wearing a crazy menswear outfit, I already do it at home. In fact, I prefer to do it here in LA, both in my apartment and out with friends, simply because that’s where we should always get fitted for. I don’t need to go to Florence to wear a white suit or even a tuxedo. I can just wear those things on any random Wednesday– and so can you!
Of course, I do think I would have fun if I went (especially if I had closer friends who were also attending), but it would have to really align with my schedule (and my wallet).
Anyway, listen to the full podcast episode if you want to hear more about our Pitti takes and what we would wear if we went!
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Ethan M. Wong (follow me on IG)
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a little bit of rest 